Burda 7602  (Yellow) 8-20 Burda 7602 (Yellow) 8-20
PATTERN 7602
PATTERN PIECES:
A B 1 Front 2x
A B 2 Back 2x
A B 3 Front facing 1x
A B 4 Back facing 2x
A 5 Pocket 1x
A 6 Facing strip / lining 2x
A 7 Sleeve front 2x
A 8 Sleeve back 2x
B 9 Front armhole facing 2x
B 10 Back armhole facing 2x
THE CUTTING LAYOUTS ARE ON THE PATTERN SHEET
PREPARING PATTERN PIECES
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart:
dresses, blouses, jackets, and coats according to your bust
measurement and pants and skirts according to your hip
measurement. Adjust the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding
or subtracting the number of inches (cm) that your measurements
differ from the measurements given in the Burda chart.
AB
Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size:
for the DRESS, view A, pieces 1 to 8 and
for the DRESS, view B, pieces 1 to 4, 9, and 10.
Open-edge finish
We sewed this dress with an open-edge finish. Important: Use
only fulled fabrics or heavy jersey, which won't fray.
If you prefer, you can also sew the dress in the normal manner. All
necessary seam and hem allowances must be added as given
below.
A
Sizes 10 . 20 (36 . 46)
Mark lines for zipper pocket on pattern piece 1 as marked for size
8 (34).
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING PATTERN
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm).
If you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your
size at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". This ensures
proper fit.
=Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same
amount at the same lines.
How to lengthen or shorten pattern pieces:
Cut pattern pieces along marked lines.
To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart
as necessary.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as
necessary.
Even out side edges.
CUTTING
FOLD (. . . . . .) means: Here is the center of a pattern
piece, but in no case a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be
cut double, with the fold line forming the center line.
Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the
cutting layout are to be placed face down on the fabric.
The cutting layouts on the pattern sheet show how the pattern
pieces should be placed on the fabric.
AB
When cutting from a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are
pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides
are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side.
The pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting layout extending
over the fold of the fabric should be cut last from a single layer of
fabric.
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added:
1" (2.5 cm) for hem and sleeve hem and 5.8" (1.5 cm) at all other
seams and edges.
Transfer all pattern outlines (seam and hem lines) and pattern
markings to wrong side of fabric pieces using BURDA
dress-maker's carbon paper. Follow instructions included with
carbon paper.
A
Lining fabric
Cut the facing strips for the pocket openings (piece 6) from the
piece of lining fabric, adding no seam allowances.
Cut out INTERFACING pieces as illustrated and iron to wrong
sides of facing strips (of lining fabric). Transfer pattern outlines to
interfacing pieces.
SEWING
When sewing pieces together, right sides of fabric should be
facing.
Hand baste along pattern markings to make them visible on the
right side of the fabric pieces.
AB DRESS
Important when sewing an open-edge finish
Seam allowances will be trimmed away after stitching and the hem
edge(s) will be cut open. To prevent this trimming from causing
seams to come unstitched, stitch first only to the marked seam or
hem allowances, tie-off the seams with backstitching, then
continue stitching, across the seam and hem allowances.
Darts
1 Stitch bust darts in front pieces, stitching each dart from
edge to point. Knot threads at points of darts. Press darts
down (1a).
Stitch waist darts in back pieces. Press darts toward center back.
Center front seam
Lay front pieces together, right sides facing. Baste center front
seam and stitch. Trim allowances to 3.8" (1 cm) wide and press
toward right front. Trim lower allowance to 3.16" (0.5 cm) wide.
Topstitch right front close to center seam and 1.4" (0.7 cm) from seam,
thereby catching allowances.
A
Zipper pocket
2 Baste facing strips to dress fronts, right sides together,
matching lines. Stitch facing strips in place along marked
lines, as illustrated. Slash between stitching lines to approx. 1.4"
(0.7 cm) from each end and clip from ends of slash into
corners, close to stitching.
3Turn facings to inside, baste, and press. Baste a zipper under
edges of each slit so that it opens from top to bottom and zipper
teeth remain visible. Use your machine's zipper foot to stitch
zippers to inner edges of slits, stitching close to edges.
Trim facing strips along edges of zipper tapes.
4Lay pocket piece on wrong side of dress front, with right side
of pocket piece facing wrong side of dress front, and baste.
Working from outer side of dress front, stitch pocket in place,
thereby also stitching zippers to side edges of slits (4a).
AB
Center back seam
5Lay back pieces together, right sides facing. Baste center back
seam. Stitch seam from slit mark (arrow) to lower edge. Tie-off
ends of seam. Leave slit basted.
Shoulder seams
Lay dress front on dress back, right sides facing. Baste
shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (1), and stitch. Press
seams open.
1 - 2
AB
6 Lay back facing pieces on front facing piece, right sides
together. Stitch shoulder seams, matching seam numbers (2).
Trim seam allowances and press seams open.
Neck edge
Open allowances on back slit edges.
7 Baste facing to neck edge, wrong sides together,
matching shoulder seams.Topstitch 5.8" (1.7 cm) from neck edge then
again 3.4" (2 cm) from first line of stitching, thereby catching facing . end
stitching at allowances on back slit edges. Tie-off ends of seams. On
facing, trim away allowances at center back.
Trim away allowance of neck facing, close to outer stitching line.
On neck edge, trim away allowances close to inner
stitching line as illustrated (7a).
Zipper
Turn allowances on back slit edges to inside again.
8Baste zipper under slit edges so that zipper teeth are covered,
folding zipper tapes to inside, over neck edge of allowances.
Stitch zipper in place by machine, using the zipper foot (8a).
Side seams
Lay dress front on dress back, right sides facing. Baste side
seams, matching seam numbers (3), and stitch. Press seams
open.
A
Sleeves
9Lay each sleeve front piece on sleeve back piece, right sides
facing. Baste upper sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (4),
and stitch.
Trim allowances to 3.8" (1 cm) wide and press toward sleeve backs.
Trim lower allowance to 3.16" (0.5 cm) wide. Topstitch sleeve backs
close to seam and 1.4" (0.7 cm) from seam, thereby catching
allowances.
Fold each sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Baste lower
sleeve seams, matching seam numbers (5), and stitch. Press
seams open.
J Fold sleeve hems to inside, baste, and press. Topstitch 7.8"
(2.2 cm) from fold edge, thereby catching hem. Cut hem open
along fold. Topstitch close to lower edge of each sleeve (10a).
Setting in sleeves
K Pin each sleeve to armhole edge, right sides facing. When
setting in sleeves, 3 points are important for proper fit:
= The seam marks (6) on sleeve and dress front must match.
Sleeve seam and side seam must match. The upper sleeve seam
must match shoulder seam. Working from the sleeve side, baste
sleeve to armhole edge and stitch.
Trim seam allowances. Press allowances toward sleeves.
B
Armhole edges
L Lay each front armhole facing piece on back armhole
facing piece, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams,
matching seam numbers (7), and side seams, matching seam
numbers (8).
Trim seam allowances and press seams open.
Stitch facings to armhole edges as described and illustrated for
step 7. Shoulder seams and side seams on facing and dress must
match.
AB
Hem dress, cut hem open, and stitch as described and
illustrated for step 10.
2 - 2
Pattern 7602